The tomb of Razia Sultan – Chandni Chowk, New Delhi
First time I tried to locate the tomb of Razia Sultan was before the Google Maps and Smart Phones era. Asking for directions in the Old City for this tomb is not exactly enthusiastic and encouraging. Winding narrow lanes lead up to this secluded plot of land. Heavily encroached upon, it is thanks to the ASI which keeps the access way clear with the sign boards. The almost neglected and forgotten tomb almost begs to ask, why should you even bother about Razia Sultan. After all she is just a speck of dust in the male dominated kingship of the Indian subcontinent.
A certain turn of events
Shamsuddin Iltutmish, a ruler of Delhi Sultanate was faced with an unprecedented crisis when his eldest son and nominated successor died in 1229. He had other sons too, but believed they were incapable of ruling the vast kingdom. So as a trial he appointed his daughter to manage his capital while he was away visiting Gwalior. On his return he was more than satisfied with her handling of matters of state. He made up his mind that she would be his successor.
He also set into motion a chain of events which will lead to one of the greatest chapter in the history of India text books. (pun intended)
Location of the tomb of Razia Sultan
It is both easy as well as difficult to reach this place. One wrong turn and you are moving in circles. Locals are helpful, but try to understand, you are looking for a very non glamorous place.
The first place you should begin with is the Turkman Gate, well marked on Google Maps. If you have reached there in your own vehicle leave it behind at the pay and park facility opposite Delite Cinema. The road opposite is a one way. Nearest metros are Chawri Bazar which is Yellow line or Delhi Gate which is Violet line. All these approaches are walking distance. Turkman Gate is a prominent landmark from where there is a straight road, right into the narrow lanes of Old Delhi. The first sign board is at Turkman Gate itself.
The second sign board is at the Y junction. If you are able to reach this, means you are on the right track.
The final sign is just at some sort of iron gate. That leads to really narrow street till that street finally terminates to the tomb.
About the tomb
An iron gate and a couple of boards mark the location and starting of the tomb. In the center are two unmarked graves on a raised stone platform. A stone slab writes a brief history of this place in English and Hindi. Nothing else. No visitor, no guides, no fancy stuff. It is as if Old Delhi and their people want to forget the only woman queen of the Delhi Sultanate followed by the Mughal Empire. Not just these, but she could perhaps be the only woman queen of the assortment of regions east of the Khyber Pass ruled by various groups.
She belonged to that period in history of India which covered two major dynasties, the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal Empire.
Delhi Sultanate was formed by Muhammad Ghori who came from the Ghor region in central Afghanistan. It began in 1206 and ruled Delhi upto 1526 by five dynasties, Ghurid, Mamluk, Khalji, Tughlaq, Sayyid and Lodi. After the defeat of Delhi Sultanate led by the Lodi Dynasty by Babur in the first battle of Panipat on 21st April 1526, it was the turn of the Mughal Rule. They were more Islamic and fanatic as compared to the Mughals and their rule lasted from 1526 to 1720 with their last ruler Aurangzeb old, tired and defeated. Babur’s grandson Akbar also referred wrongly by the left historians of modern India as Akbar the great tried to consolidate the Mughal empire by expanding it southwards, but by 1760, the great Mughal empire was reduced to just pockets of population in Old Delhi. By that time the British and other European powers had already made inroads into various Indian territories in the garb of trading. So 1760 onwards till the first battle of Independence of 1857 and the final victory of Independence in 1947, it was the turn of the British Empire, which again was mostly male rulers. Between 1760 and 1857 also saw the rise of the Sikh Empire.
She earned her place as the Queen
For about one year, her father went away for a campaign to Gwalior and left Razia in charge of the administration of Delhi. Iltutmish was not exactly a feminist but he had practically no choice since his other surviving sons were more into enjoyment and partying rather than any so called leadership grooming. Razia more than took the opportunity. Once he returned, his decision of making her his heir was more than cemented. It perhaps could have been another ploy to wake up his other sons out of their slumber. This was also the first sign of the clash with Turkic nobles who did not support his decision.
Most of the these Muslim rulers used to bring along their most trusted generals and landlords to assist them to rule. After all, trust was the greatest weapon those days and what could be more better than having your own people around you. During his final days, he appointed one of his step sons as ruler and after his death a bloody power struggle began with killings and executions within the nobles, so much for trust and loyalty.
When it was the turn of Razia, she used the ultimate weapon to survive, the power of the people. With a few nobles on her side, she went to address a public congregation. As the previous administrator of Delhi, she was both familiar with her people as well as confident about their reaction. So it were the people who led the rebellion to the palace and capture of the rulers Ruknuddin and his mother Shah Turkan.
Rule of four years
Her rule was mostly about asserting herself as the queen. She tried a balance between the Turkic nobles who mostly opposed her by appointing non Turkic locals at important posts. She started issuing coins in her name and appearing in public without the screen. She started making public appearances mounted on elephants. That made her extremely unpopular among her generals and administrators. Every time she left Delhi, there was always a threat of someone conspiring against her.
Finally on one such occasion she was arrested and later died.
Survivor in a power struggle or more
Whether she was an accidental queen or she is as brutal as her male counterparts, she had made her mark in history. She is an integral part of Old Delhi which is why her grave is located within its walls. Residents of Old Delhi are desperately trying to forget her. They have even managed to build a masjid in the premises. But a day will come when they will see the grit and determination within her.
